I don't understand why the brown wire into pin 3 would be live. I get that the (n) and (l) pins are 240v and that would be normal. As this loops into pin 1 also, that has 240v. The brown wire going into pin 3 has 240v. In reality, there is a blue wire for neutral, brown wire into live, another brown wire into pin 3, and a small brown loop wire from pin 3 into pin 1. Once you've removed the black link test to see if u have any power at the room stat L & 3 (the brown and blue wires) test with both to earth so put the red probe on L the the black probe on Earth and the same for port 3 and tell me if u get 240v on either?Īpologies, the shadow makes it look like there is a black cable. You need to remove the black link completely, what u need to establish then is where the cable coming out of pin 3 and dissapearing goes, it should go to the L port of the room stat. The L & N should be fed directly from the fuse spur, this is basically a feed for the electronics inside the programmer, so the programmer always has power basically. Right first the programmer, what needs to happen. There is an inline fuse box which kills the power to both the timer and thermostat so would the next step be to look at the wiring at this fuse? I'm no electrician but this whole setup seems crazy to me! It doesn't appear that the timer is connected to the thermostat in any way. On the thermostat, N and L are constantly live.
As far as I can work out, the connections between pin 1 and 3 are pointless, as is the second live into pin 3. From the 3rd pin, there is a little wire loop which also makes the '1' pin constantly live. Whipped off the timer and thermostat again tonight and it's very odd.Īs you can see from the attachment, for the timer there is a neutral wire (n), live wire (l) and a second live, which is fed into the '3' pin. 20 minutes and the place is toasty usually.Ģ013 Yamaha YBR-125ED -> 1997 Yamaha YZF-1000R Thunderace -> 2009 Yamaha XJ-6 Diversion -> 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer S2 Only use the timer when it starts getting really cold, at the moment I usually just press the Extra Hour button to give it a blast when needed.
#Fuck your champion 2.0v full#
This way the boiler runs for the full hour and doesn't cut out early, or keep switching on and off as it hits and temperature, drops and tries to reach it again. I can't speak for the wiring of the system but I always set the thermostat to some temperature the boiler can never reach (30ºc+) and use the CH timer to make it come on for an hour in the morning starting half hour before I get up, and an hour in the evening starting half hour before I typically return from work. Good bit of kit, doesn't take long to take the chill out of the air and the hot water pressure is so high there's no need for a power shower, seriously it's like 85% the pressure of the cold.
#Fuck your champion 2.0v pro#
The boiler is a a vaillant ecotec pro 24 (unsure of year).Īh yes, my flat has that boiler. Sounds about right, that'll be a link between the permanent supply coming in and the one going out, so in theory your programmer isn't doing anything as it's that that is suppose to make the connection and then forward that to the room stat and then providing your room stat completes the circuit by u turning it up itl bring the boiler on. Don't fancy poking it anymore while i am tired. I'll whip the timer off again tomorrow after work and post back the results. When i replaced the timer, I didn't question it at the time and wired it up as it was previously.
The old timer, if i remember correctly, didn't have an 'all day' setting so that might have been a hack to have the heating on constantly and have it controlled by the thermostat.
Now that i think about it, there was a piece of wire that was going from one terminal directly to another when i installed the new timer.
Yeah, neutral to live shows 242 volts permanently. What do I need to do the get this setup how I want? I wired it up, but the behavior I mentioned above was identical under for the old single channel timer too. I'd just like to add that the single channel timer was replaced over summer as the (very) old one died. It's annoying because it means we have to either have the thermostat set constantly (basically always on) or get up and adjust the thermostat to get warm in the mornings. Likewise, when the program times out, the central heating is turned off. What's the point in having a single channel timer if as it doesn't actually do anything? I was under the impression that you set the thermostat to the desired temperature, and then when the single channel timer program kicks in, it brings the house up to temp accordingly. We have a combi boiler, a single channel timer and a thermostat.Ĭurrently, when the thermostat is turned up, it clicks, the central heating comes on regardless of whatever program the single channel timer is on (on, off, auto, all day - it doesn't matter).